Description
This text covers the whole field of wave studies and should be of interest to applied oceanographers and ocean engineers. It should also have considerable relevance to coastal engineering. The book is split into 12 sections, the first of which is devoted to the practical applications of wave studies and to the history of wave research. The rest of the book covers the measurement of waves, including remote sensing; the analysis and interpretation of wave data; estimating the properties of the extreme “Design Wave”, as well as of the generality of waves for fatigue calculations; waves in finite depth, wave generation by wind and wave forecasting models; non-linear effects, and errors and uncertainties in wave data. Table of Contents Chapter headings. Series preface. Preface and acknowledgements. Principal symbols. List of tables. Introduction. Some basic concepts and definitions. Measurement: omnidirectional. Directional measurement (in situ sensors). Analysis and interpretation: omnidirectional. Estimating extreme wave height. Analysis and interpretation: directional data. Remote sensing of waves. Waves in finite depth. Wave generation by wind, and wave forecasting. Nonlinear effects. Errors and uncertainties. Appendix 1 The computation of wave spectra. Appendix 2 The spectrum of the product of two random variables and that of the square of one random variable. Appendix 3 Cross-power Spectra. Appendix 4 Digital integration and filtering. Appendix 5 Some useful statistical formulae. Appendix 6 Fitting regression lines to wave data. Appendix 7 Initial analysis and on-line recording of wave data: practical recommendations. References. Subject index.
